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The Sunday Times, 24th January 2010
In an 18th-century building overlooking the water is The Pearson's Arms, a seafood restaurant that, in winter, more than matches them with meat and even vegetarian dishes. The star attraction is the chef Simon Wills, who created a superb modern British restaurant at the Carpenters Arms in the Elizabethan village of Eastling. The recession - and isolation - ended that venture. But the countryside's loss is Whitstable's gain.
We went on a wintry Sunday, the skies leaden, the sea breeze all too bracing. The quaint but warm interior was a cheerful tonic. The theme of the menu is English with local sourcing, as is the fashion now, but Wills has added good pub gusto to it.
To start, I had the jerusalem artichoke soup and truffle oil. It was exquisitely balanced, and I would have relished eating it in a main course portion. My wife opted for some simple home-smoked fish and creamed fresh horseradish. She liked it and I wrangled a large share, too. To wash it down, I chose a light Mercurey, at the expensive range of the wine list, but a fair price at £32.
For the main course, I opted for a signature at Wills dish, a British cassoulet ...as good as any I have encountered in Gascony The chef is not afraid of his robust ingredients, and for the Pearson's version he used goose, old spot and home smoked sausages made more piquant with mustard dressed leaves.
Keeping faith with the sea, my wife picked a fish stew and enlivened by leeks, fennel and aioli. She liked the halibut floating in a delicate broth. The second son shrewdly plumped for a rich salt-marsh lamb pie, with suet crust and baked potato mash. He scoffed the lot...the children piled into huge portions of sorbet afterwards while mum and dad, too full-to go on, sipped their coffees amid a chorus of contented slurping and breathy oinks.
Staff were friendly and hospitable to all, complimented the children on their good behaviour at table - an unusual occurrence, this, as their admiration for the younger members of the Addams family knows no bounds.
The bill came to £160 for a family of five; at that price, I will go back soon to see how Wills has developed. He's made a good start, but we know he can do even better.
Michelin Guide 2010
"Spacious seaside pub with rustic feel; watch sunset from first floor dining room. Appealing blackboard menu offers predominantly seafood, with local game in winter, bread baked in-house and homely puds. Tasty food; engaging service."
WHICH 2010
The Good Food Guide 2010 "readers recommend"
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